In a season full of anticipated designer debuts, the final is upon us: Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel, which was presented last night at the famed Grand Palais. The iconic Parisian landmark has been home to Chanel’s presentations for years, but the venue has rarely been as bustling with anticipation as last night.
That anticipation soon turned to awe and wonder as Blazy’s first design for Chanel hit the runway—a menswear-inspired shirt and trousers, an ode to one borrowed and worn by Gabrielle Chanel from Boy Capel, her muse lover.
It was the perfect foreshadowing of the collection as a whole—modern yet timeless and bearing references to Chanel’s heritage.
Matthieu Blazy’s Vision: Honoring Chanel’s Heritage with Modern Ease
Relaxed tailoring continued throughout, an homage to Coco Chanel’s boundary-breaking tradition of borrowing from the boys. Chic suiting was juxtaposed by feminine tweeds, soft silks, and feathers, lots of feathers.
While Chanel’s most classic House codes are unmistakable, they are deconstructed and reconstrued in a fresh and entirely new way. This is the magic of Matthiew Blazy.
Deconstructing and Reimagining Chanel’s Iconic Codes
The bags also focus on deconstructing and reconstructing iconic House codes. Take, for example, the classic 2.55 bag. Created in 1955 by Gabrielle Chanel, for Spring 2025, it’s given a relaxed update—crinkled and lived-in, worn open, revealing the iconic burgundy interior.
Elsewhere, Blazy played with other staples like the Classic Flap, blown up in size and softened. Models toted the maxi carryall in soft suede and smooth leather.
Other key shapes include an envelope-like shoulder bag with tiny CC hardware sitting atop the flap, which was seen in smooth and exotic leathers. A chain-flap bag that mimics two bags sewn together and can be carried from the front or back also appeared in multiple looks.
View bags from the runway below.
The Bags of Chanel Spring 2026
Look/featured images are courtesy of Chanel, and detail images via Vogue Runway.
And people had the NERVE to call Virginie Viard’s Chanel frumpy???? Some of these looks are incredibly unflattering.
Karl was experimental at many times with silhouette, but he and merchandising that made runway palatable for stores ALWAYS ensured the majority his designs would sit and fit flatteringly on any woman. Some of these designs will be difficult to impossible to tailor and alter to fit.
And Coco more embodied this idea of fitting the woman PERFECTLY so I have to question certain members of the forum and most of social media’s judgement if they’re saying the spirit of Coco Chanel is back.
I wouldn’t have said frumpy so much as staid. Safe. This feels risky which is at least exciting and new! I’m watching and intrigued.
There were a ton of negative words the blogs and non-clients used to describe her collections , Staid is another, frumpy, boring, only for grannies. But if that was the case, then what is this? Circus tent colors? Even more matronly bags? And as another commenter said aptly, summer camp craftiness?
I know Virginie wasn’t the innovator like Karl. But guess what, she truly understood the everyday woman who wanted to be part of the UNIVERSE of Chanel. Which is why Karl SUNG praises about her anytime he could. I’m not debating choices or who I would’ve preferred to succeed her.
Chanel has (maybe now it’s had) an incredibly loyal clientele who they completely spat on, when they let the press trash Virginie (their president called her an “intermission” and the blogs are running hit pieces against her designs) Does that mean we’re idiots now for believing in her (especially when Chanel was constantly praising her when she was there)?
There is NOTHING exciting about this. This is the same essay he wrote at Bottega with a Chanel font. Risky is if Chanel got Rei Kawakubo, this is TEPID.
This is slop for the Instagram and TikTok fashionistas to ogle at.
And now that I’m looking at this collection again, I wouldn’t like to revise my comment, it’s not “some”, it’s MOST.
Exactly!!! Beyond disappointing!!!
Exactly!! So disappointing
It’s jaw-dropping alright (derogatory)
Oh god what a horrid collection.
To the people saying this is the return of Coco Chanel, yes because Miss Gabrielle — anti-mini-skirt, “the opposite of luxury is not poverty, it’s vulgarity” — Chanel would send out a bag that looks like it had multiple trucks ran over it.
Y’all would retch if Balenciaga did this but because Chanel did this y’all are fawning over this for some reason.
Vulgar is an excellent description! Taking the one bag that is actually useable and torturing it is an absolute insult.
Love how it’s either incredibly precious (the minaudieres) or egregiously underwhelming (everything else)
The bags where they replaced it with regular straps look so cheap. It’s really shocking how such a simple change can completely ruin a bag’s vibe completely
These embroideries are done with the best hands and with incredible precision but the result and sensibilities are incredibly tacky. no refinement, no preciousness, no direction. Most look like it’s there just to be there and have no point. Okay beads that look like tweed, cute! But some look like dry grass and hay stuck onto burlap.
Together, it looks like the crafts children do in summer camp just made with incredible skill. Like maybe that would fly at Bottega, but CHANEL?
Not what Chanel represents at all.
them must be some incredibly artisanal children you are talking about. let’s be real, bottega under blazy surpassed chanel in every way possible. I don’t think old chanel customers are here for fashion and innovation. in that regard I really don’t think he’s the best match for this brand. I didn’t enjoy the collection that much myself either. but to even pretend as though this is not leagues above the white bread viard was serving is quite frankly insane.
Absolutely not, Bottega did and does not surpass Chanel in ANY way possible except quality. And quality has shown no signs of improving given they’re justifying viscose instead of silk for their tweeds. So it’s obviously an exec decision.
Chanel clients are absolutely here for innovation! I am. But with a house established like Chanel there are expectations: within the principles of the house. Just like you don’t expect Beyoncé to start doing music like Bjork.
Karl created a beautiful universe that’s as much as a part of Chanel’s legacy as Coco. When we think of Chanel, we don’t think of just Coco, we think of Karl’s interpretation of Coco. And Matthieu did not respect that enough, hence backlash from clients, conveniently no backlash from people who aren’t even Chanel clients!
Shame with a theme about “a universe” , there was no direction, nothing desirable here aside from poor reduxes of existing Chanel style garments , summer camp craftiness , and somehow more matronly colors. Jackets have been made frumpier or too trendy/experimental that’s going to be outdated by what, next year? From a brand that uses the word classic/timeless in almost every single press release ?
I agree Virginie was stagnant. We could see it as time went on. But she tried her best to cater to the loyal clients of Chanel, created practical clothes that I felt was timeless, and could be altered to fit the wearer perfectly.
This is a MB collection with a few sprinkles of Chanel codes. Many people who disliked his collection have complained there is too much of his Bottega here, meaning no evolution. Perhaps this gamble will pay off. I hope so, but right now, my hope is very very low.
It’s only his first collection, but atm I feel like we lost both bottega and chanel :/
I am loving my vintage Chanel bags even more after this collection. What a hot mess. I would not buy these bags for a fraction of current retail price.
Ummm….im not paying $10k for a busted up classic flap. The collection is different and I’m still processing things. I hope the camellia isn’t being replaced by that sea anemone thing. The only RTW I’m getting is the white shirt and cashmere jeans that Nicole Kidman wore. No costume jewelry for me this time.
Watching from afar, seeing all the “twists” in this new crop of designers’ presentations, Chanel and others. Maybe the “done away with the old” is precisely the point? Maybe since all/most of the legacy houses struggle with attracting new clients, hence the very abrupt changes and all? Maybe they are trying to dust themselves up and be the darling of the new generations and people who aren’t quite attached to “how it used to be”? Let’s face it, many long time clients are incensed by the crazy price increase and refuse to partake further (also for comparative quality). They’d rather hang on to their existing collections and wise up. The Houses must do something besides raising the insane price level to keep the PnL going.
I recall one time in the recent years, my GenZ niece went to a boutique with me and commented “oh, they actually have pretty bags.” (Translation: not all brown and matronly) I recall myself in 20s shunning away from anything of major houses because they were “matronly”. (Loewe wasn’t in the play back then.)
Now we ask, how many in their 20s can afford any of these? In comes BNPL. In comes influencers making them believe all should be had. In comes the Wealth Effect from the non-stopping S&P…topics beyond this space.
Thank you for this insightful take!
How is it possible that Chanel is stealing from coach and Gucci. One of the bags looks kind of like that huge coach bag and the boring black one with the two embossed cc’s could easily be Gucci
The one newish bag I think is kind of cool is the 2.55 but they show it all scrunched and showing its insides ewwww.
I like the little astronomy ball bag, but it’s art and not wearable. What I’ve always loved about Chanel is the beauty and elegant practicality of the designs. The classic flap is beautiful and can be used in a persons life. These bags to me are either weird looking or too fussy to actually use. I can’t even imagine what the prices.
As much as I am drawn to a few of these bags, they just don’t hold up anymore. I’ve purchased beautiful bags only for them to quickly wear at the corners, leave permanent scratches when barely touched, etc. It’s unfortunate that Chanel seems to have mastered the concept of built in obsolescence, and gotten it down to a science. Their bags, from the 90’s, hold up well, and I’m more drawn to the quality of these.
Very true Annie I have a few Chanel bags from the 80s and 90s and they’re still looking good…I couldn’t justify buying a new one with the quality issues…
Thank goodness for the robust resale and vintage market.
This collection felt like Matthieu took inspiration from Coco’s Chanel (Go look at Gabriell’s archive and you’ll see it) rather than Karl’s. I looooooooved it.
I’m so done with bags being carried upon – like everyone was trying to do a Fendi Peekaboo. Makes you wonder if the designers all went to ChatGPT for inspiration or something. 😹
That said, the miniaudieres ARE lovely.
What is it with the peekaboo fascination! LV has one that does that too. I’ve never ever liked the peekaboo. It’s fussy and annoying BUT it’s very Fendi which always has interesting and
Odd designs.
Because it was bugging me so much… “open”, not “upon”. 🤪
wow this collection is horrific. either this gets better fast or there wont be a long tenure. yikes.
The majority of user reviews on the message board here are the honest reviews.
These bags will be a rough sell IMO
Get back to me when Chanel starts using natural hide again for bags instead of bonded leather with an inch of coating on it to try to keep the color from peeling off. Get back to me when they start using natural fabrics again like silk, wool, cotton and not the same fabric fast fashion uses.
MB’s designs at Bottega were so good that he literally recycled them & the prints from his SS25 collection. Look it up. He’s going to suffocate under Chanel’s leadership as have we, the long time clients, the Camellis clients that don’t buy so much as a belt from them since 18b.
Wow! I am a Chanel fan, hoping what is next is much better!
God!! This is all horrible. No bag looks like it comes from a designer house. They all look cheap and pleathery.
Are we witnessing the return of exotics to Chanel?!
No. I asked my SA and he confirmed that they are not bringing back exotics.
I have taken your word for it; alas, I was excited at the prospect.
Are pigs flying lol?
lol, apparently not!
Lmao as IF. But I’d LOVE to be proven wrong. They’re the type of company to replace the bags with pleather if they could get away with it.
Which they have with “bonded leather”
They’ve definitely taken some… interesting directions, with their bag construction, lol.
It’s likely embossed, they recently tried to play off a cost-cutting measure of using viscose instead of silk for their tweed, so I highly doubt they would shell out for actual croc.
Well, for shame. I would have thought this an ideal time to reintroduce exotics. (Thank you for responding, btw; I was genuinely curious!)
Thank you for the insight. Upon closer look, it really does appear to be embossed croc!
I love it all ❤️❤️❤️